R&L LEGRAS CHAMPAGNE, Chouilly

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GUY CHARLEMAGNE CHAMPAGNE, Mesnil Sur Oger

"Directly beside one of the greatest houses in Champagne Salon in Le Mesnil sur Ogier is Guy Charlemagne. Average age of the vines is an impressive 65-85 years.

Mesnillesieme 2004

$110.00

6/750ml

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DOMAINE SERVIN, Chablis

The first accounts of the Servin Family in Chablis can be traced back to 1654 and with over seven generation's of traditional winemaking behind them, today, the Domaine is well known as one of Chablis' leading estate owned producers. Being one of Chablis' most important domain's with 32 hectares of vineyards in some of the most famous parcels in Burgundy, including Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre, Vaillons and Forêts and representing four of the seven famous Chablis Grands Crus with Les Preuses, Les Bougros, Les Blanchots, and Les Clos. These classic wines can found on the tables of the most prestigious restaurants in the world.

2009/10 Chablis AOC	$ 28.95	12/750ml
Alan Meadows, Burghound - 88-90 points The majority of this wine is from the vineyard “Les Pargues” which was once classed as a 1er Cru. Old vines and unique limestone soil result in an international award winning wine. A classic green fruit and mineral reduction nose leads to intense, precise and tangy flavors that possess real energy and punch on the solidly persistent finish.
Chablis 1er Cru
2009 Chablis Premiere Cru Vaillons	$35.95	6/750ml
Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar - 92 points. Good pale yellow. Ripe yellow fruits lifted by crushed rock and flinty minerality. The palate offers lovely sweetness and volume and considerable power, with a savory, salty character complemented by a strong flinty element. A bit youthfully aggressive but finishes very long. Servin owns six parcels in Vaillons, including "a very low, cold spot." - Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
2009 Chablis Premiere Cru Montée de Tonnerre	$35.95	6/750ml
Alan Meadows, Berghound - 90-92 points, One of Burghound.com’s 62 “Sweet Spot” Wines. Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar - 90-92 points. High-pitched aromas and flavors of powdered stone and lemon zest. Rich and densely packed, with an impression of sucrosite leavened by strong acidity. Finishes with superb persistence. Offers a combination of richness and minerality that's a lot harder to find in 2009 than in 2008." - Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Chablis Grand Crus
The Domaine Servin has four prestigious vineyards in the famous Seven Grand Crus of Chablis. A unique opportunity to taste these rare and prestigious wines from a single producer.
2009 Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots	$65.95	6/750ml
Alan Meadows, Berghound - 90-92 points. Stephen Tanzer, IWC - 90 points.
2009 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses	$65.95	6/750ml
Stephen Tanzer, IWC - 91-94 points. Alan Meadows, Burghound 91-93 points - An elegant and admirably pure nose of green fruit, iodine and sea breeze introduces the rich, intense and focused flavors with a real flourish, all wrapped in a linear, texture and palate coating finish. This is lovely stuff with the Zen-like harmony of a classic Preuses. (2016+) One of Burghound.com’s 40 “Don’t Miss” Wines
2009 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros	$65.95	6/750ml
Stephen Tanzer, IWC - 90-93 points. Alan Meadows, Berghound - 90-93 points - A reserved and moderately austere nose features green fruit and floral notes set off by a deft touch of wood before sliding seamlessly into rich, powerful and concentrated medium plus weight flavors that possess ample amounts of dry extract that confer a textured feel to the impressively intense and mouth coating finish. This is a big and well-muscled wine that should age well. (2016+) One Of Burghound.com’s 62 “Sweet Spot” Wines
2009 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos	$65.95	6/750ml
Stephen Tanzer, IWC - 91-93 points. Alan Meadows, Burghound - 90-94 points - This is also more ’08 than ’09 in character with its white flower, oyster shell and saline nose that precedes the textured and solidly well-concentrated middle weight flavors that possess fine delineation on the long and sappy finish that linger an impressively long time. The flavors do seem a bit forward at present but I suspect that this will tighten up considerably once in bottle. (2017+) One of Burghound.com’s 40 “Don’t Miss” Wines

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JACQUESSON, Dizy

Voted the third best of all Champagne Houses (after Bollinger and Krug) in 2005 La Revue Des Vins De France. Jacquesson which was founded in 1798 was one of the very first Champagne houses. Today the prestigious firm is run by the Chiquet brothers, Laurent and Jean Herve. Their focused dedication is bases on one thing… creating the highest quality Champagnes that can be made. Their reputation as one of the top producers in all of Champagne is second to none. When I visited with Jean Herve last year we tasted the full range of Champagnes. I was blown away by the purity, depth of concentration and overall elegance and balance that each wine showed. If you are a real Champagne lover then you will not want to miss these extraordinary Champagnes, Richard Juhlin.

Jacquesson Brut Cuvee 734	$58.00	6/750ml
This latest release cuvee is composed of 54% chardonnay, 26% pinot meunier and 20% pinot noir. A blend of 2006 vintage (73%) and various reserve wines from Grand and Premier Cru vineyards in the Marne Valley and the Cote des blancs. Disgorged in the 3rd quarter of 2010 (July, August, September) and dosaged at an ultra low 3.5. Less than 30,000 cases produced. A wonderfully dry style with creamy, stone fruit nose. Peach and apple fruit with toasty and yeasty notes. Heaps of acidity on the finish, which is exceptionally clean and fresh. Organically produced

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ANDRE CLOUET, Bouzy

Ever since Antonio Galloni of Robert Parker fame first tweeted about Andre Clouet Cuvee Un Jour de 1911 this relatively unknown Champagne House has skyrocketed into the spotlight. Also in part due to the terrific reviews that Antonio Galloni has also awarded the Champagnes of Andre Clouet in the December 2009 issue of the Wine Advocate. “Champagne...Andre Clouet 1911...100% Bouzy grand cru pinot..50% 1996, 25% 1995, 25% 1997...absolutely majestic...like silk on the palate…”5:58 AM Jul 16th, 2009 via TweetDeck.Demand for these wines has continued to grow with several reviewers comparing the wines of Andre Clouet to the likes of Jacques Selosse, the domaine that put the word cult in “Cult Champagne.” In any event, the Andre Clouet wines are worth checking out and yes they are practically half the price of Jacques Selosse!

Andre Clouet Brut Nature Champagne Silver	$49.00	6/750ml
The NV Brut Nature Silver is delicious champagne. The fruit shows bright, high-toned notes, along with flowers, minerals and mint that linger on the powerful close. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014.
Andre Clouet Rose	$58.00	6/750ml
Andre Clouet Cuvee Un Jour de 1911	$110.00	6/750 ml
Robert Parker - 94 points. The NV Brut Grand Cru Classe 1911 is best described as a multi-vintage wine, composed of 50% 1996 and 25% each 1995 and 1997. I have had the 1911 at least four times over the last few months and never been anything less than deeply impressed. A richly-textured, expansive Champagne, the 1911 bursts from the glass with expressive layers of perfumed Pinot fruit. The wine possesses stunning depth, clarity and precision in an utterly engaging style, with never-ending waves of fruit that caress the palate from start to finish. Precise chalky notes frame a sublime finish. Simply put this is remarkable juice, and one of the best relative values readers will find in Champagne. The 1911 is 100% Pinot Noir made from various lieu-dits in Bouzy. Disgorged: September 7, 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019.

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DAVID LECLAPART, Trepail

David LeClapart is a biodynamic artist who works according to the Selosse method and teachings. His conviction that loving handling always pays is difficult to refute after encountering and tasting the masterpieces he creates in harmony with nature. His Champagnes are truly of another dimension and quality level. Richard Juhlin ranked David’s 2004 L’Apotre as one of the top 100 Champagnes in the last 100 years. The only Champagne of a recent vintage to make it on this honour role! “It is a labour of love to follow David’s journey to the top."

David LeClapart L’Apotre	$120.00	6/750ml
Richard Juhlin - 98 points. The L’Apôtre is an oak-fermented Blanc de Blancs sourced from the Pierre Saint Martin vineyard, planted in 1946 and farmed biodynamically since 1996…it see’s 30 months on lees in bottle. White mousse over a pale lemon gold in hue, it is at first quite unforgiving before relaxing in the glass and giving up aromas of lemon curd, pastry, crunchy apple, white chocolate, lifted white flowers and deeply etched minerality. There are some light autolysis characters in there also…some enchanting mushroom broth and subdued marmite notes. The palate seems fused and over compact at first with a piercing acid line, slightly metallic even and begs for more time in the cellar to evolve. But again slowly it begins to show the goods….citrus and apple, fresh pastry, white flowers, minerals and almonds. The fruit purity is heady and the acidity is crystalline and cleansing. Finishes bone-dry with superb cut & balance. Fantastic stuff.

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GEORGES LAVAL, Cumières

According to Peter Liem, who is the source for who is hot in Champagne, “Georges Laval is the best Champagne house you have never heard of. It’s the sort of Champagne house that when you taste it you want to keep it all to yourself”. The tiny estate of Georges Laval remains unknown to many Champagne lovers, but it must surely be counted as one of Champagne’s finest growers. The estate is only 2 hectares and Vincent Laval produces a mere 10,000 bottles of premieur cru Champagne, characterized by organic farming, very low yields, ripe fruit and vinification in barrels. There is a remarkable purity and pronounced vinosity and depth to Laval’s Champagnes. He releases his wines when they are relatively young and so older vintages in the market place are so rare that they are practically non existent.

Cumieres Premieur Cru Brut Nature

$75.00

6/750ml

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BERECHE ET FILS, Ludes

2009 Champagne Producer of the Year, The Champagne Warrier Magazine. One of Champagne’s rising stars, the 26 year-old Raphaël Bérèche  has been working alongside his father Jean-Pierre at their nine-hectare estate of Bérèche et Fils since 2004, and today he is putting an increasingly personal stamp on this artisanaly run domain.  The Bérèche estate owns vines in three different sectors of Champagne: the area around Ludes and Craon de Ludes; the eastern Montagne de Reims, around Trépail; and Mareuil-le-Port, on the left bank of the Vallée de la Marne.  

The range begins with the Brut Réserve, a non-vintage brut that usually contains about 25 percent chardonnay, 25 percent meunier and 20 percent pinot noir from the base vintage (2008), along with 30 percent of reserve wines, also from the three varieties.

Bereche Extra Brut Reserve	$55.00	6/750ml
89 PointsStephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar. Pale, peach-tinged straw. Lively pear and nectarine aromas, with a flinty, smoky accent. Medium-bodied, crisp and refreshing, with sweet peach and pear flavors, silky texture and bright, firm acidity on the back end. Nicely balanced, juicy Champagne with a lingering nutmeg note
Bereche Brut Rose	$85.00	6/750ml
41% Pinot Noir, 41% Pinot Meunier, 18% Chardonnay. A rosé made by assemblage from the 2006 & 2007 vintage. The Bérèche family put in a lot of hard work in the vines and have really good touch in the cave, as displayed by this lovely rosé with excellent texture, ripe red fruits and chalky undertone. 6g/l dosage
Bereche Vallee de la Marne Rive Gauche	$85.00	6/750ml
Vallée de la Marne Rive Gauche is a pure pinot meunier from the vineyard of Les Misy in Port à Binson, near Mareuil-le-Port on the south bank of the Marne River. The pinot meunier vines in this north-facing, chalky-clay parcel were planted in 1969, giving the resulting wine an uncommon depth and resonance of flavor.
Bereche L’Instant Le Cran 2005	$85.00	6/750ml
The vintage cuvee L’Instant is intended to showcase the best portions of the Ludes terroir. “We talk about premier cru and grand cru (in terms of quality),” says Bereche, but this demonstrates that there is much more minerality in the mid-slope of premier cru terroir than at the base of the slope in grand cru.” L’instant comes from two vineyards of old vines, planted in 1969, while the other half is Pinot Noir from the east-facing La Vigne St- Jean that was planted in 1973. There is also 5% Pinot Muenier from the lower portion of this vineyard included in this cuvee. Like the Rive Gauche this was vinified With indigenous yeasts in barrels of various sizes, and it was aged on cork. Disgorged October 2009.

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LAHERTE FRERES, Chavot

When I was in Champagne late last year visiting Raphael Bereche he happily suggested that I pay a visit to his friend Aurelien Laherte who in Raphael’s opinion is producing some of the most unique and mineral and terroir driven wines in the region. One of the best recommendations that anyone gave us during the trip. The Laherte family has deep roots in the village of Chavot, located in  the Vallée de la Marne and Côtes des Blancs. This means that Aurélien is fortunate enough to be working with some very fine and diverse terroirs, old vines planted by his grandfather , and lesser-known, rarer heirloom varieties. He brings to this a dedication to vineyard work (some of the land is in biodynamic, and most of the rest is organic) and a thoughtful approach in the cellar as well.

The results are quite impressive indeed. Most of his production (only 7,500 cases a year) is in two cuvées: the Meunier-dominated non-vintage Brut Tradition and the Blanc de Blancs (Chardonnay, of course). Both are fine examples of a drier, racier style of Champagne, and will benefit from some bottle aging, as will the 2004 vintage bottling. In contrast, the current ‘Les Empreintes’ was amazingly fruity showing outrageous minerality and focus, reflecting the ‘character’ of the 2007 vintage which it is based on. On the more esoteric side, we enjoyed the stunning ‘Les Clos’, a blend of 7 varieties from the 2008 harvest. Certainly these are Champagnes to search for and are absolute musts for the collector and lover of grower Champagnes.

Laherte Blanc de Blanc N.V (2008)  Brut Nature	$55.00	6/750ml
This is made of equal parts 2007 and 2006, entirely vinified in barrique. Although it's lively and brisk, with a prominently chalky undertone, it reflects its terroir origins exceptionally well. You immediately see that it's not a Côte des Blancs chardonnay, as the clay topsoils of this area give the wine a certain roundness and breadth on top of the racy minerality. It's perfectly balanced as a non-dosé, its 20 percent of malolactic undoubtedly helping to create a better harmony of acidity, and while there is a pleasing depth of citrus and apple fruitiness, along with hints of dried mango and preserved ginger, this wine is really all about soil and expression of place.
Laherte Les Clos (2008)  Extra Brut	$85.00	6/750ml
Blend: 18% Chardonnay, 14% Pinot Noir, 18% Pinot Meunier, 8% arbanne, 15% petit meslier,17% Pinot Blanc and 10% fromenteau. All 7 grapes are picked and pressed together. This is Bio-stuff! A Champagne with 7 different grapes is for sure unique and holds lots of storytelling by embracing and bringing back historical varietals from the Champagne region. Why you may ask, as not all of these grapes have the same cycle of life and maturity date. The answer is simply to show terroir, by actually not focussing on the grapes individuality. This Champagne has an outrageous level of energy. Even when it rises in temperature and the mousse settles down, it doesn’t stop. On top of this you have the spices, which is almost impossible to describe. They took me on a journey of; black/green tea leaves, spicy peach, wet hay and nutmeg. There are so many “voices” coming from the fruit core, like all 7 grapes are singing their song. The other notes are this intense lime note, citrus, yeasty components, baby banana and apple zest.
Laherte Les Empreintes Brut Nature 2007	$89.00	6/750 ml
This is a new cuvée, made entirely from biodynamically-farmed parcels in Chavot and blended from 40 percent pinot noir, 40 percent chardonnay and 20 percent meunier, including some chardonnay muscaté from old vines. The current release, entirely from the 2007 harvest, is outstanding, firmly driven by an earthy, stony minerality that reflects the complexity of Chavot's soils. There's a fragrant array of flavors on the palate that range from tangerine and tart cherry to crystallized ginger, dried papaya and aniseed, finishing with long, elegantly harmonious length and subtle detail, but really it's that mineral expression that's the most striking element of this wine.

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CHAMPAGNE AGRAPART, Avise

One of the most beautiful vineyard sites in all of the Cotes de Blancs is today lovingly tended by Pascal Agrapart. Pascal’s Champagnes are very Burgundian in approach and this is not surprising when you consider the clay and limestone expressions and the family’s approach to making some of Champagne’s most focused, and energetic wines in all of Champagne. Established by Pascal’s great grandfather at the end of the 19th century the estate has some of the most coveted vineyards. Pascal is a purest, plain and simple. His wines are mineral driven expressions of the terroir itself and one glass of any of his cuvees will confirm his position as a rising star in Champagne.

Agrapart Terroir Extra Brut	$58.00	6/750ml
A blend of the 2005 and 2006 vintages, made exclusively from 20-40 year old vines in the grand crus of Avize, Cramant, Oger and Oiry. Fabulous colour. It is a dense, concentrated and structured champagne aged for over three years sur lattes. There are buttery and brioche notes on the palate with hints of menthol and liquorice too. It has a 5g/l dosage. For drinking now to 2014.
Agrapart Mineral Blanc de Blanc 2004	$85.00	6/750ml
Made from two different parcels, Le Champ Bouton in Avize and Les Bionnes in Cramant, where the vines are very close to the chalky subsoil, it has a beautiful pale gold colour and is taut and reticent on the nose with a pronounced chalky minerality cosseting the fruit. On the palate it is slightly salty with a hint of iodine, racy and stylish with a poise and fruit reminiscent of grand cru Chablis. It has a 4 g/l dosage. For drinking now to 2015+.
Agrapart L’Avizeoise Blanc de Blanc 2004	$85.00	6/750ml
This outstanding champagne comes from 50 year old vines in the lieu dits of Les Robarts and La Voie d’Epernay on the Avize hillside, where there is a deep layer of limestone-clay soil over the chalk. The fermentation in bottle is carried out under cork rather than capsule, with a minimum of five years on the lees. There is a notable step up in quality with L’Avizoise which has a dense, rich style and complex flavours. On the nose you can smell mangoes and exotic fruits, which follow through on the palate, where ripe peaches show, with toasty, grilled notes (typical of a champagne aged under cork) and hint of truffle and mushroom too. Dosage of 4g/l. For drinking now to 2016+.

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DOMAINE GRAND VENEUR, Orange, Southern Rhone

Featured in Robert Parker’s 100 best estates of the world, this estate is a “rising star in the South”. Alain Jaume turns out wines that display impeccable balance between spicy fruit and that southern French meat and garrique sensibility that gives complexity in small doses. Predominately a Chateauneuf house, they produce modest amounts of Cotes Du Rhone and Lirac whose remarkable complexity and sophistication belies its simple origins. ” Grand Veneur is one of the most brilliant estates in Chateauneuf du Pape as well as the force behind the negociant wines sold under the Alain Jaume label. Virtually everything they produce has merit. Some of this estate’s 2009 red wines are just hitting the market as they are bottled early to preserve their fruit and freshness. I can’t say enough about the job Alain Jaume’s two sons, Sebastian and Christophe, have done with this estate. The impeccable attention to detail in the vineyards, the meticulous vinification, and the careful bottling benefit every consumer”, Robert Parker.

2009 Cotes Du Rhone Reserve	$21.95	12/750ml
Best Buy – Wine Spectator. 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 10% Cinsault. The colour is purple-tinged garnet. The aromatic range of the nose goes from fresh berries (wild raspberry, blackcurrant, blackberry) to spices. The palate is big and full-flavoured, with silky-smooth tannins and aromas of the fruit already mentioned. The finish introduces touches of liquorice and pepper.
2009 Cotes Du Rhone "Les Champauvins"	$25.95	12/750
Robert Parker - 90+. The vineyard borders on the Chateauneuf de Pape appellation. 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre. Intense, brilliant garnet-red colour. The aromas of underwood and ripe red berries which are present are typical of the terroir. The tannic structure is elegant and smooth. The finish is dominated by slight touches of spices and truffles.
2007 Lirac 'Clos De Sixte'	$28.95	12/750ml
Robert Parker - 93 points (10/09). 50% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre. An intense red garnet colour. On the nose, aromas of red and black ripe fruit (kirsch and wild blackberry) are dominant. The mouth is full, with aromas of blackcurrant liquor and spice. Tannins are both harmonious and elegant thanks to the fleshy style of the wine. The finish develops hints of liquorice and vanilla, which gives the wine length and complexity. “Abundant licorice, graphite, black cherry, and blackberry characteristics are offered in a full-bodied, deep, fleshy style. Liracs generally do not age as long as Châteauneuf-du-Papes but this effort is capable of lasting 5-7 years where well-stored as it is a big, impressively endowed wine."
2007 Chateauneuf Du Pape Riserve 'Les Origines'	$85.00	6/750ml
Deep and brilliant purple-red colour. An exciting nose with aromas of black fruit(blackcurrant, cherry), spices and vanilla. This great aromatic complexity is found on the palate: the spices and ripe fruit appear with an elegant woodiness and harmonious tannins. The finish has good aromatic length and introduces a touch of liquorice and peppers. A terrific Châteauneuf du Pape with great concentration and finesse. Robert Parker - 93-96 points (10/08). "The 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Origines may turn out to be one of this estate-s finest cuvees, although one should not overlook the 2006 Les Origines. A luxury cuvee sold at a reasonable price, the 2007 boasts a dense blue/purple color as well as a sweet perfume of blueberries, charcoal, creme de cassis, graphite, smoked meats, and herbs. Dense, full-bodied, and exceptionally pure, with a multilayered texture, moderate tannin, and a stunning finish, it will benefit from 2-4 years of cellaring, and should drink well for 20-25." Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar - 90-93 points (Jan/Feb '09). "Opaque purple. Pungent aromas of blackberry, blueberry, incense and potpourri. Offers brighter red fruits on the palate, with sweet floral pastille and smoky mineral qualities adding complexity. Becomes more energetic on the sappy, precise, very long finish."

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